Romance of the Eternal City

The thing I remember most about Rome and the Vatican is that we did a lot of walking.  While the same could be said about our entire Italy trip (a detail that still scares some of our close friends and family from taking an extended trip with us),  it was particularly true in Rome, where we easily logged 8 miles of walking a day.   The other thing I remember clearly is that just hours after we arrived in the Eternal City, we had a minor spat as we were on route to the Vatican.  Details are fuzzy, but let’s just say they involved my exceptionally small bladder, onset of fatigue from a several hour train ride, getting lost a couple times along the way and my husband’s inopportune re-utterance of the phrases “we’re almost there” and “just hold it a little longer” one too many times.

Which is how we found ourselves strolling into the Vatican in the late afternoon the day of our arrival in Rome – cranky, red-eyed and mad at each other.   Not the picture of idyllic love as portrayed by Audrey Hepburn and Gregory Peck in Roman Holiday.  In fact, this time, when we donned our headphones and turned on Rick Steves, it was so we could avoid looking at each other.  But here’s the thing when it comes to time constrained travel – the clock’s always ticking and some things have to be accelerated – even fights.   Faced with the option of fuming in silence or strolling the sights hand in hand, you grudgingly put your ego aside and opt to change the channel.

So we changed the channel and rewound the tape.  In the next several hours, we managed to:

• Tour the ornate interior of  St Peter’s Basilica
• Climb the 320 steps to the top of the Cuppola (dome) and take in a breathtaking view of Vatican City  and Rome from above
• Toss the obligatory coin over our shoulders at the Trevi Fountain to ensure a return visit to Rome
• Wander the lively squares at Piazza del Popolo and Piazza Navona
• Sample delicious rich gelato at a famous shop just off the Pantheon
• Climb the Spanish Steps at night amidst a spattering of lingering locals and tourists
• Enjoy a 7 course feast and the most memorable meal of our trip at Ristorante Il Gabriello (a guidebook recommendation)

• The Colosseum – as epic as we imagined, with gorgeous views from the interior
• The Roman Forum – one of my favorite attractions – it was easy to picture the grandeur of the Roman Empire amidst the lush landscape, blooming orange trees and towering ruins
• The Palatine Hill -towers 40 meters above the Roman Forum and  considered the original birthplace of Rome, an archaeological wonder complete with ruins of ancient palaces
• The Pantheon – the oldest church in the world and a standing testament to man’s reverence for the heavens and his remarkable ingenuity
• The National Museum of Rome – a nice respite from the crowds, showcasing notable Roman sculpture and artwork

Though our visit got off to a rocky start, Rome earned its place as one of my favorite cities in all of Italy.  There is a subtle vibrancy and richness to the air around this eternal city, one that speaks to its history and epic greatness.  As we neared the end of our visit, I was struck by a quote which speaks to the timelessness of this city –  ”As the Colosseum stands, so shall Rome.  As Rome falls, so shall the world.”  Wandering through the ruins of the mighty Roman Empire, you can’t help but contemplate the course of human civilization and the lessons history has to teach us.  Speaking for ourselves, I can say with 99% certainty that my husband has learned never again to argue with a woman in search of a bathroom.  For the other 1%, I just remember to keep the remote handy.